If you’ve walked down any grocery aisle recently, you’ve probably noticed the words “natural” and “organic” on anything from potato chips to salad dressing. It seems like all a company has to do is slap on one of these labels and the product immediately becomes healthy, clean and wholesome in our minds. If only it were that easy. Unfortunately, terms such as “natural” and “organic” can be ambiguous and don’t address some of the biggest issues in food production. What we as consumers really need to be discussing is sustainability.
Organic summer squash and bell peppers line the shelves of Whole Foods Market on University Avenue in Madison.
Photo Credit: Brian MogenSustainability has been a hot topic over the past few years. Surely, most people have heard this word being thrown around, but not everyone knows what it means. One of the most popular definitions of sustainability comes from the 1987 United Nations Conference, where it was defined as “meeting present needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their needs.” An important application of sustainability has to do with one of our most fundamental actions as human beings—eating. People come into contact with food multiple times a day, yet most of us never stop to think about where it came from and what implications it may have. Rebecca Pons, co-director for the student organization Slow Food UW, claims that the definition of sustainability is actually multi-faceted when it comes to food.
“First, we mean sustainable in that [the process] does not degrade the environment,” Pons says. In general, consumers want to avoid pesticides, hormones and genetic modifications to food. These types of things can be directly dangerous to one’s health, and can also find their way into various runoff systems, ultimately ending up in our groundwater, lakes and rivers. Pons explains that the term can also refer to wages—the ability of farmers to actually live off of what they make. “Sustainable, in that [the process] actually sustains the food culture in the area. This idea of huge spinach farms in California and the orange groves in Florida just does not make sense,” Pons says.
But eating sustainably is often easier said than done. Amy Soyck, a recent graduate of UW-Madison, works with the Wisconsin Union dining services as a sustainability coordinator. She explains a few constraints that UW-Madison faces when considering more sustainable food processes. “Because we are a state institution, we have to abide by Prime Vendor contracts,” she says. These contracts are made every few years with a large distributor that is capable of meeting the needs of such a large operation. UW-Madison is not able to reach out too far beyond these distributors. “In terms of volume, [UW-Madison is] a huge operation that requires a significant amount of just about everything, so to get local food or products, we would need a guarantee on the amount, delivery schedule, quality and price before we get anything,” Soyck says. There are some sustainable farms or businesses, however, that are already associated with national distributors, which can make the transition far easier. “Organic Valley, in LaFarge, Wisconsin, has a relationship with US Food, our current distributor, so we can order Organic Valley products through our regular ordering channels,” Soyck says. “The Union dining services is always open to new food ideas and understands the importance of making our food options more environmentally and socially sustainable.”
Eating sustainably can also be a challenge on an individual level. People tend to see a move toward organic, sustainable food solutions as inconvenient and expensive. It can be disheartening when one goes to the market and sees a small package of organic cucumbers for $5 and a huge bag of potato chips for $1.50. Why would anyone—especially a broke college student—choose to pay so much? The difference in price can be easily explained. “What you don’t see is the background costs, the degradation to the environment, as well as the [cost to the] people who work in the awful conditions,” Pons says.
In fact, the very heart of the sustainable food problem is the lack of education among the general public. “If you take five minutes to see how horrible [our food processes] are, and how completely interlinked they are, you will find that it is scary … so educate yourself, do the research,” Pons says. She suggests looking at your daily activities and analyzing the little things that can be changed. For example, for those on a tight budget, it may be helpful to know which foods are more important as organics. For instance, a conscious consumer would choose an organic apple over an organic banana, because most the pesticides on a non-organic banana are removed with the peel and thrown away, rather than being consumed directly like the skin of the apple.
For those looking to make a change on a larger scale, UW-Madison offers plenty of chances to get involved in the sustainable food movement, one of which is Slow Food UW. The Slow Food organization has played a major part in educating people about where their food comes from and the unseen effects associated with producing that food. The group members spread the message that people can support local food while also enjoying eating. In addition, the group holds family dinners on Monday evenings where you can taste for yourself what sustainable food is all about. The dinners are only $5 and, Pons says, “Everything is as organic, local and sustainable as possible … and we have local chefs that come in. It’s a fantastic event.”
UW-Madison student Justine Rudeen sifts through organic tomatoes for use in her own home cooking.
Photo Credit: Brian MogenThe members of Slow Food UW have also gotten involved with the UW-Madison food system. Their hope is to get involved with serving sustainable meals at dining areas across campus. Currently, Slow Food UW serves breakfast every Friday at Rheta’s, a dining hall located in Chadbourne Hall. “Hopefully we can extend that to lunches and dinners, and hopefully take over Rheta’s,” Pons says.
There are many other opportunities to support sustainable food in Madison, and you’re not required to be part of any organization to do so. There are countless businesses that promote sustainable food and agriculture. For instance, Pons suggests that people get involved with local markets or cooperatives. “If someone is really interested in the food movement they should go somewhere like the Willy Street Co-Op or the Regent Street Co-Op for local and sustainable [products],” she says.
In addition, many restaurants and cafes around the city will serve you a delicious meal that is also sustainable. Jonny Hunter, co-owner of Underground Catering, is one individual promoting sustainable food here in Madison. Hunter’s company serves up clean, sustainable and local food for a variety of events and occasions. “We think food that supports our community both environmentally and ecologically builds stronger communities and creates more meaning in our lives,” Hunter says. Indeed, food that is grown and produced locally can affect many parts of a community, from the farmers who grow the product all the way to restaurants serving up the food.
Ask questions about what actually went into the food you are eating, and the answers may be closer than you think. Many local markets, stores and restaurants serve clean, sustainable food that has been grown and produced in the community. For these foods, there are no question marks about whether the food is saturated in pesticides. There are no doubts about the safety and well-being of the workers who produced the food. There are also no uncertainties about how the ecosystem was harmed in exchange for a meal. What is certain is the fact that the food is safe for the environment, simple and sustainable. “We need to think of different ways to continue on our cozy little path, but still be respectful to our planet.”
Places to eat sustainably in Madison
Ancora Coffee Roasters
Black Earth Meat Market
Bloom Bake Shop
Bradbury’s Coffee
Dane County Farmer’s Market
Fresco
Glass Nickel Pizza Co.
Harvest
Just Coffee
Lombardino’s
Mother’s Fool Coffee House
Nature’s Bakery Co-op
Regent St Co-op
RP’s Pasta Company
Underground Catering
Whole Foods
Willy St Co-op
Yahara River Grocery Co-op